Everything's coming up Moosey

August 04, 2013

Well the mountain was not visible as we drove southward toward Anchorage.  Overcast, cloudy and intermittent rain fell most of the way to WILLOW.  Our spot to stay would be dry camping at the Willow Creek State Recreation Area for two nights at $10 per day.  We immediately met our closest neighbors as the guys held two Silver (Coho) salmon.  They hailed from up state New York and were doing the Alaska vacation with fishing intermixed.  We chatted as I watched the first salmon get slaughtered on the fillet board I had loaned them.  I requested the privilege of doing the largest, a 27” hen.  I was granted the honor and I produced two gorgeous fillets.  I did have the distinct advantage of doing over 70 this year and the fisherman had only done pan fish previously.  I was thanked with directions to the section of river these fish were caught.  I excused myself and returned to the Raptor.  We all walked down to the Susitna River/Willow Creek confluence to see how everyone was doing.  I few Silvers were on stringers and several hooked up or snagged up fish.  Pinks and Chums were released immediately and then two young ladies hooked up side by side.  The one on the right had a fight on her hands but after 30 seconds, the fish was lost.  The other girl lost hers almost as soon as it was hooked and I watched for the lures recoil behind her but I guess I missed it.  As we walked past a group had formed around that girl and now I could see where her lure was.  It was stuck in her left cheek and the eldest fisherman in the group was readying his needle nosed pliers for the removal.  On we went and we took the more scenic route back to the Raptor.  Perhaps a bit too scenic as the tall foliage swallowed up Carol. 

After dinner, Lisa and I went on a beer run and no more then 200 yards from the park entrance, I spotted a moose.  A very young bull with spikes in velvet, tried to play hide and seek with us.  Fortunately I had the perfect assistant to capture the event.  Lisa fired away with everything she could grab.  I slowly picked up my camera and shot a bit of video that was that.  Lisa remarked that she was a bit saddened because her mom missed that one. 

We arrived at the local market and beer store and had fun looking at all the expensive items.  One thing we agreed upon was an ice cream cone.  We each got a cappuccino chip single and headed next door for the beer.  Lisa picked Silver Gulch’s Pick Axe Porter (Fairbanks, AK) and I selected Deschutes Brewery’s Black Butte Porter (Bend, OR).  Did you notice that?  Well if you didn’t, I’ll tell you later.  Back at camp, we sampled our selections then I asked if anyone cared to accompany me to the river for some fishing.  Lisa and Carol declined so I took off for the creek with my gear and half a bottle of beer (ale).  I saw plenty of fish but nothing hit my offerings.  All of the fishermen had left that section and I was alone with the scavenging gulls.  I waded into the center of the creek and watched this three foot maroon object approaching me.  My legs had created an eddy as I stood still the King (Chinook) Salmon was directly in front of me.  It had a half dozen quarter sized white spots of decay as it lazily swam downstream.  That was a majestic sight to behold.  Then it happened, SILVER on and it tore off downstream.  I worked to increase the drag as the fish headed toward an overhanging tree.  Roots and junk lay below and the fish was in that mess.  Well, a twenty second fight was better then nothing.  I picked up my gear and headed home and the beer I had chosen was from Oregon.

   This young bull is trying to make himself invisible

August 05, 2013

This day would be busy as we have plans to visit TALKEETNA and ANCHORAGE, a hundred plus miles apart.  TALKEETNA is the base for mountain climbing expeditions of Denali (Mt McKinley) as well as having some other neat landmarks.  We ate at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, enjoyed caribou chili and conversation with our tablemates from Anchorage.  On the way out of town we made a stop at a Birch Syrup store.  Expensive but very tasty and if you are good and extremely lucky, you might get a taste this fall.

I apologize to my mother-in-law for the punishment she withstood riding in the back seat for most of the trip.  A one ton with airbags makes for STIFF suspension and the roads up here have a bump or two built into them.  So after we dropped the Raptor, I would let Carol sit in the front and Lisa would drive.  Wow, I think my liver just hit my Adam’s apple…bumps are not your friend.  I say this because this was Lisa’s day of driving and I rode in the back to ANCHORAGE for our dinner with an old neighbor from Romeo, Ed Anger.  We shared a great pizza and then headed to Flattop Mountain (3510’) that overlooks the city and Cook Inlet.   You can drive to about 2500’ then the rest is up to you.

                          A few Poles who summited Denali                         

                         Talkeetna Roadhouse, food, lodging, and bath available

                              Fairview Inn

                             A Mercedes fire truck, note the model number on the hood 

                             Nagley's Store

Anchorage and Cook Inlet

August 06, 2013

For breakfast this morning we will be serving Alaskan Sourdough Wild Alaskan Blueberry hotcakes with Alaskan Birch syrup at $27.00/plate.  I think the coffee was roasted here as well.  Last relocation for the Raptor and the ole girl has held up to everything she was dished.  Once we made it to WASILLA we stopped for laundry and lunch.  Lisa and I found the Mountain View RV Park in Palmer would do for our last two nights.  Of course, I parked TOO close to the mountains and the trees obscured Lisa’s view.  I jokingly asked if she wanted to move (after completed the setup) and she said, “Yes.”  Well it did not happen.  What do you think of that Careen? 

Lisa had wanted an espresso drink while driving through Wasilla but we spotted them too late, were in the wrong lane or too big for the lot.  One we did stop at was designed for RVs and trucks but at 2:01pm we had missed the 2:00pm closing.  Not an employee or vehicle in sight so I think they snuck out too early.  But to make the world right, after setup we headed to the Purple Moose Espresso in Palmer for that espresso shake.  Lisa and I enjoyed a long walk together after returning to the park.  Talking and taking in the natural beauty of the land, wild snap dragons, vetch, and old fashioned roses that smelled wonderful.  They had so few petals but the scent was more pure then any hybrid tea.  It was a special time with Lisa that evening.  We spoke so openly and honestly.  Our words were spontaneous yet precise.  We held hands, hugged and cried some.  It was a great place to be that night.

              A bug encrusted bumper looked like a good place for this Yellow Jacket to find a meal

August 07, 2013

This day would be shortened because we had to depart for the airport before 5:00am.  A quick trip to town, but a short way out the drive we happen upon a momma moose and calf.  They didn’t stick around, camera shy I guess.  On our return trip, after chasing the sunlit Knik Glacier to get THE right shot, momma was out again but the youngster was absent from our lenses.  After lunch we had a short drive to the reindeer farm to see and feed domesticated caribou, a bull moose, elk and a bison.  I enjoyed studying my future quarry up close and personal. 

When we returned, girls packed and I prepped the freezer box for the salmon.  It had been an adventure and the journey was coming to an end.  We will remember the sights as they will be more vivid and alive in our minds.  We will retell the stories and share our joy with our friends and family as best we can.  But nothing can replace being here. 

Knik Glacier (right side)

                             She was 20 yards away but looks like her breath could fog the window

                                  "Humans bore me, I'm outta here"

                                    Bison bison

                               Just hanging out in the shade waitin for kisses

                             "Hey pretty girl, plant one on these lips!"

And at 6:00am I said goodbye

                         

A Bear and a Pint

August 03, 2013

We were up early this morning for our Denali National Park tour so we powered up with Wild Alaskan Blueberry Sourdough Hotcakes and coffee.  The ladies did a fine job with the picking yesterday. 

Wild Alaskan Blueberry Sourdough Hotcakes

After arriving at the park we were early enough to catch most of the informative video about the park’s beginning.  Then at 9:25am we boarded our bus for the six (6) hour tour to the Toklat River junction.  Some may remember a movie of the same name TOKLAT, 1971, about a man and his grizzly, well it isn’t the same.  But there is a Toklat color phase of the grizzly and it is blonde with chocolate colored legs.  Anyhoo, Rex was our driver, originates from the western Upper Peninsula and is in his seventh year in Alaska.  Rex did a fine job with landmarks, geography and spotting animals but lacks a little with biology of said animals.  The first 18 of the 53 miles was more or less void of animals but then things started to pop.  First was a grazing three year old “Toklat” grizzly and it ate grasses thirty yards from our bus.  A few miles later were a sow and two cubs and on the opposite side of the road another sow and pair of cubs.  Above them, I counted six grazing caribou that were barely visible to the naked eye.  As the drive went on we crossed Polychrome Pass, aka Sinners Pass or Poison Pass (One Drop Will Kill You), where back when the park opened, a ranger would walk visitors too frightened to ride in the car or bus.  It hasn’t improved much since then and when you pass another bus, you could shake hands with the others without any extra effort.  The junction at the Toklat River was extremely windy, dry and dusty and nobody wanted to linger.  During the return trip we saw another three caribou and headed to the exit.  And as 70% of the Denali visitors can attest, we did not see Denali due to the heavy clouds.

                         Scruffy looking 3y Grizzly, "Toklat" phase

                         Grizzly sow and cubs

Toklat River, windy and dusty

Instead of returning to Cantwell we made a turn north to HEALY and the 49^th State Brewery for dinner.  Outside they were holding their version of Oktoberfest called Augtoberfest.  I enjoyed a pint or two of Solstice IPA and all you can eat Pork Roast.  Carol and Lisa had chicken and smoked pork chop and everything was German-style with kraut and German potato salad.  Parked outside the brewery sat a movie prop from the movie Into the Wild, 2007.  The story was about Christopher McCandless and his adventure and eventual death by starvation in said bus.  This is ONLY a movie replica as the original is located about 30 miles west of HEALY on the Stampede Trail.  That will be another trip at another time.

Lisa at 49th State Brewery, Healy Alaska

                               Bus 142 from Into the Wild, 2007

Shake, Rattle and Roll

July 30, 2013

 Traveling north to Gulkana today but there is not any hurry.  We did some light shopping in VALDEZ and lunch overlooking the harbor.  The drive was uneventful and unhurried.  We did speed by one moose and that upset someone in the truck but she soon gave the understanding look that you don’t slow down from 50 mph with 18 thousand pounds pushing you.  After three hours we arrived at my summer residence, Jon’s place.  Jon is back on the North Slope so we setup the Raptor in the driveway between his houses and did a short walk around the 18 acres.  A friend dropped by (from the sky) to see Jon.  It was neat that Carol and Lisa got to see the plane land and take off.  Laundry was done by midnight and we all would be sleeping in.

July 31, 2013

Everyone seemed to want to pull the covers up and go back to sleep.  Around 7:00am thunder started and shortly thereafter came the rain.  As usual it lasted no more than an hour so the laziness and raindrops faded as one.  Just some refilling of the water tank and we were off toward Paxson.  The Richardson Highway was fair to excellent with minor to medium frost heaves and repairs to brand new asphalt.  The last 20 miles were double yellow lanes twisting and turning uphill to Paxson.  We had lunch at the Paxson Lodge and I was impressed that the prices were overly fair for these parts.  Philly steak, mushroom Swiss burger and sweet potato fries were shared by all.  At 2:30pm we started westward on the Denali Highway.  The highway is paved for the first 22 miles so I drove about 45-50 mph.  The next 50 miles to our campsite was all dirt, mixed large stones and washboard.  Top speed was 35 mph but most was around 20-25.  We just pulled off the highway onto a turnaround and that was that.  To say we are remote, I’ll let you be the judge.  In the first hour, not a single vehicle passed by.  After four hours there had been three.

The Denali Highway awaits

                                                             Deanli Highway scenery

August 01, 2013

We awoke on a small lake around Mile 73 to no bears, no moose and no caribou.  Ate breakfast, pulled in the slides and we were off to Cantwell.  Lisa got her first taste of the driving as I sat in the copilot seat cringing at every bump and chatter.  The road could shake your RV apart and when Alpine Creek Lodge (Mile 68) repairs 3-5 flats a day, we took care to continue at a slow and even pace reminiscent of the tortoise.  Just after a beautiful stop for pictures and bonus blueberry picking we were informed by a passing BLM worker that a Grizzly sow and cubs were up the road a quarter mile.  We stopped and the terrain was not conducive to all so I quickly scurried up the gravel covered hill side just in time to see the blonde colored momma slip into heavy cover, almost ¾ mile away.  She was followed by her blonde cub then her chocolate cub and the moment was only captured in my memory with aid of my binoculars.  More scenery passed by with the Alaska Range to the north and plenty of caribou and moose habitats.  Then I asked Lisa to “STOP!”  “What?” she asked.  “It’s our camping spot,” from ten years earlier I replied.  The two-track where the truck sat was just as visible as was the farthest hilltop where the tent was pitched.  I glassed the wetlands to the north and there was a cow moose and her calf just like the before.  I got Oma and Lisa to see these then I jogged the path for a closer look.  It was emotional to be there but I did lack the completeness not having Megyn and Kristyn along. 

At Mile 122.9 I announced, “There it is!”  Denali sat there in the over 90 miles away 95% visible, only the peak was obscured by its own clouds.  You know Denali causes its own weather don’t you?  As the road twisted back and forth as we continued toward Cantwell, Denali would disappear then reappear until we were too low and the nearer mountains and trees blocked the view.  We had made it to CANTWELL.  Cantwell RV Park and Cabins would be base camp for three days and nights.  Denali National Park is thirty minutes north, Fairbanks is 140 miles north and Anchorage 210 miles south.

                                         Susitna River

                                        Parked at Mile 96 (proof we were actually on the Denali Highway)

                                         The glacier a few mile north of Mile 96 (20+)

                                         The cow moose in area near our 2003 camping spot

                                         Not just another big mountain, "The Mountain" DENALI

August 02, 2013

We see overcast skies and 60 degrees for this Friday morning.  We tried real hard to be lazy this first half then after lunch went for a drive to Broad Pass on the Parks Highway.  Broad Pass has an elevation of 2409 feet and its significance is the rivers south flow south to Cook Inlet (Anchorage) and the rivers north run north to the Yukon River which flows west to Bering Sea.  Everything has to drain somewhere and at times it is hard to wrap your head around information like that.  Around the Pass we stopped and picked wild blueberries.  Lisa picked the most followed by Carol.  I failed to produce more then a small handful…I could not resist the temptation and I ate about a pint.  The quart that made it back to the Raptor will meet there demise in yogurt and in sourdough hotcakes (we don’t have room in freezer for ice cream).

 
 My contribution to the quart

                                    Carol's (L) and Lisa's (R)...I'm the hunter, she's the gatherer